Usually, the blade must be short. Only 6 left in stock - order soon. I place a temporary pin thru the pivot hole in the liner and apply glue to the liner surface. I got really tired of having to drag that thing out, etch a blade, and then clean the etcher back up again after each use. I use a drill press vise to hold the blade and move the blade into the cutter by hand. Custom StatGear Ledge Slip-Joint Pocket Folding Knife Knives | D2 Steel, G10 Handle, Reversible Tip-Up Carry Pocket Clip Slip Joint CurateNYC. However, a lock will never cover errors in human judgment. We will never spam you, and you can unsubscribe at any time. 12 bids. I start by creating a pouch using stainless steel foil. I'm gonna try 1125 degrees for 2 hours and see how that works. Lock design and quality has improved significantly over the last few decades. Most the knives I sell are through this website, so I only do 3 or 4 shows per year. Here's a view of the open profile...time to grind the blade. I could do this using the same method as the first cut using a cut off wheel in the drill press, but now that I have a mill, I think I'll try something new. Though stingy with his words, he did include an illustration of a relatively large slipjoint fitted with a clip blade on one end and a spear-point blade on the other. $16.99. Zero Tolerance 0230 Jens Anso Design Manual Opening Slip Joint Folding Knife. I made this one using photos of others I've seen as references. By scratching the blade, turning it over and scratching again, I get 2 lines on the edge that are about 0.015" apart. The photo show the pocket drilled out to accept the stainless rod. As a result, some manufacturers have returned to a classic design: the slip-joint folding knife, sometimes called a non-locking folder. I put the pivot pin in and the rear pin in and then had to tap the center pin in because of the offset. Paperback. The spring will flex in this thinner section and that will lighten the tension. This is a prototype of a new design I worked up to see if I could eliminate the 90-degree corner at the joint that is often left exposed with a slip-joint. Slip-joint Folder Designing and Building Steve Culver. Again, the holes are reamed and deburred. OK, now here's what it looks like. The excess glue that seeped thru the holes in the liners is cleaned up and the holes for the rest of the pins are drilled thru the handle scales. Because the first cut is slightly angled back, and the second cut is also slightly angled up, there is no way to get right in the corner with the mill. To that end, the liner on top of the photo has an additional hole drilled...I'll use this hole to place the mosaic pin later. I'm new to making slipjoints and may find that I can dial this in a little closer, but I'm not comfortable with trying to get too close at this point in the process. It's a pretty big folder, and I want to add a way of attaching a lanyard to it to make it easy to pick out of my back pocket. It's a pretty big folder, and I want to add a way of attaching a lanyard to it to make it easy to pick out of my back pocket. I don't like wimpy springs. Free knife design template of Japanese kitchen knives, western chef knives, and outdoor utility knives. Notice that I have a small bump right in the corner where the 2 cuts meet. While I'm thinking about it, I'm gonna mark the edge of the blade in preparation for grinding in the bevels. Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License. When you start with your design use a blank sheet of paper and make a free hand sketch of ideas for the outline of your knife. First, I'll sand everything down to a nice even 400 grit finish. Anyhow, I made ain't pretty, but it works. The worn out knife will usually give me a painful reminder that it no longer closes completely before it actually gets replaced. Then I go back to the drill press and drill the pivot hole out from the back side using the hole I drilled in the handle scale as a guide for the drill bit. It I try it now, I'll likely gall the inside of the spring where it is in contact with the blade. Here's the blade rotated to the closed position...about right before heat treating. I use the little piece of titanium as a backer for the sandpaper. $4.20 shipping. My kiln is programmable which makes this easy. I'm new at building these slipjoints and am still learning something new with each one. Create your own unique website with customizable templates. Not only does it seem exotic to western eyes, but it is an example of form and function defined by manufacturing technology and a culinary tradition that is markedly divergent from the western experience. Their most characteristic feature is their design language - in particular the blade geometry. I only want to taper the hole part of the way in, so I used a piece of tape as a guage to keep me from going too deep. While this was going on, I placed the springs back in the kiln to temper at a much higher temp than I can get with the toaster oven. I've got the holes drilled in my liners and have assembled the knife with temperary pins. I've clamped the handle scales down to keep them from moving. The hollow grinding is done on the belt grinder using an 8 inch contact wheel. I'll do that and also polish out the surfaces of the cuts down to 400 grit and finish profiling the parts on the horizontal grinder. Get early access to amazing experiences. I like the look of Coke bottle or Fiddle back folders, and have taken a stab … I've pulled the temperary pins and disassembled the knife so I can adjust the stiffness of the spring, but I think I'll relieve the liners first while I've got the knife apart. I darkened the edge with a sharpie and used the tip of a drill bit to scratch a couple of parallel lines down the length of the blade. Boker Plus 01BO069 Slack Slip Joint Folder. Here's the sheet I have, but it is too thick at 3/8". Then the handle scale is lined up using the pin and centered on the liner. Creating a folding knife adds a level of complexity and precision to knife making, and our course makes this achievable by anyone. What makes this model a bit more modern is the laminate powder 3G steel. This will do. Now I have two pieces that are just at the right thickness. The blade came screaming sharp, the fit and finish is fantastic, and the micarta feels so good in the hand. I will also slightly chamfer the holes I drilled to reduce the chances of having stress risers when I heat treat the steel. So here's what the handle scales look like at this point. The holes were then slightly chamfered to remove burrs. I start by laying the handle scale on the liner and marking where the pivot hole will be. $5.50 shipping. I'll continue to refine the bevels making sure they match on both sides and keep stepping down with finer and finer belts to get a good satin finish on the blade. I want the backspring to lie flush with the top of the liners when the knife is in both the open and closed position. It is the perfect blend of a traditional slip joint, and modern materials and design. Also included is a tutorial on building a single blade slip-joint folder, without the use of a surface grinder or milling machine. After cooling, the blades are placed in a toaster oven and tempered at 400 degrees for 2 hours. The parts are sealed in the pouch to keep oxygen away from the blade while it is in the oven. This knife looks like a classic slip joint with a redwood inlay. It features lightweight Grade 5 titanium scales, Cherrywood inlays, and a short, but effective 2.35″ blade made from Sandvik 14C28N steel. Here's a pic of the knife with the excess material ground off of the spine. VINTAGE CASE XX USA 62134 "CANOE" FOLDING 2 BLADE JIGGED HANDLE KNIFE 1965-69. Better start by saying that my method for doing this is not necessarily the best method. I've taken a pencil and marked a line on the liner at the bottom of the spring just below where that last hole is. Written by Mastersmith Steve Culver, this handy book covers all of the design elements crucial to designing the joint mechanism of a slip-joint folder. It's not perfect, but I think it is a definite improvement over the ones I made before getting the milling machine and horizontal grinder. I use some 3/32" 416 stainless rod for the remaining pins. This website sells custom handmade fixedblade hunting knives and custom folding pocket knives made by Al Warren in Roseville, CA.. 4.9 out of 5 stars 234 # 1 Best Seller in Metal Work. But I still have to cut in the nail nick and put my mark on the blades before they're ready to go in the oven. I use a piece of cratex in the drill press. I oiled the area where the blade and spring make contact. 5 out of 5 stars (851) 851 reviews. Now I have a nice round hole with a flat bottom. The hardening temperature I will use is 1850 degrees F.  I'll hold them at that temperature for 20 minutes. I then grind it down to make it flush with the handle material. This should put enough tension on the may put too much tension on it, but I can adjust for too much, too little and I'll have to cut new liners and start this process over. In the past, I've been etching my mark into the blade using an electric etcher and stencil. Now it's time to do a little fitting. I ground down almost to the scribed lines. The relationship between the spring and the tang of the knife is very important. The corners are nice and sharp. Then it will be time to pin the knife together permanently. 20 bids. I'm really liking this new mill! All Wedding & Party. OK, so far so good. As anyone who has done one of our courses will attest - we have no secrets at Tharwa Valley Forge. Now, that's better. It is only a small sample of his work - much of it is unrecorded. I've decided to make a sodbuster pattern roughly based on an old eyebrand pocket knife I've had since I was a kid. In this spirit we are pleased to host a library of our own knife designs and templates, free for anyone to learn from and use. This doesn't have to be exact, so a pencil mark works fine. Kizer Zipslip I use the open position as the reference point and adjust the closed position to match. Filter By. It's important to get the blade and spring positioned right. From shop CurateNYC. It is not necessary to draw the outline to scale at this stage - it is more important for you to be creative in your … A non-locking knife demands respect, because if you don't, there is the possibility of it … This knife is 8 3/4" long in open position, 5" closed and the blade is 3 3/4" from tip to scales. I have a bucket of water next to the grinder and frequently dunk the blade. ... With its clean design, the Kwaiken Folder is one of the most popular knives in the Boker Plus se.. ... Boker Plus 01BO630 Wasabi Slip Joint Folder. I stacked the liners together using the temperary pins and drilled both at the same time to ensure they match. Bladesmiths are particularly reliant on the generosity of other makers when they are first starting out. CRKT Quill Slip Joint Knife Steigerwalt Design CRKT. Didn't know if my wood saw would handle this stuff or not, but by going real slow it did a pretty good job. It's got a slip joint mechanism and a small lanyard that lets the knife slip in and out of the pocket easily. Notice that the cut is slightly angled to the back...more about that later. Stuff is tough as nails. Here's what the parts look like after being tempered. If all goes right, the pin will blend in with the washers and will not be visible. $19.99. It’s also available in a full-titanium version for $20 more. I repeat the process for the other handle scale. Makin progress! Here's a quick look at how the knife is shaping up. Here are my stainless pouches containing the blades and springs placed in the kiln. Oh well, it is easy to file that little corner out. I don't have to worry much about that using this micarta. For now, I'll have to rely on the published data and hope things turn out right. 4.3 out of 5 stars 22. Probably make more sense when you see the result. All of us here have benefited from the generosity of some incredibly talented craftspeople. Since this is intended to be a sure enough working knife, I've decided to make the handles out of some black canvas micarta. The James Brand is known for its stylish and useful designs, and the Pike, a modern traditional knife, fits right in with its clean, sleek, organic design. "The strong double-bladed pocket knife is the best model I have yet found, and, in connection with the sheath knife, is all sufficient for camp use." The smaller pins that hold the handle scales on have been peened in place. Douk-Douk Traditional Slip Joint Folding Pocket Knife – Amazon / Blade HQ When thinking about inexpensive carbon steel folders from France the obvious example is the iconic Opinel . SKU: CR6404. I'm planning to put micarta or G10 handle scales on it and want a tough blade that will hold an edge well. I took the knife to the grinder and did some shaping and polishing. I've decided to make a sodbuster pattern roughly based on an old eyebrand pocket knife I've had since I was a kid. I was thinking a longer knife than my first one that would be ideal for cutting fruit. Small enough to fit in the palm of your hand, even when deployed, this offering from Columbia River Knife and Tool is a… One of the next pieces of equipment I would like to get is a rockwell tester so I can check the hardness and adjust when needed. After working the shape down to where I like it and refining it with finer and finer sanding grits, I finished by hand sanding and buffing. Features a dark grey bead blasted finish, with a minimal modern design. I've not gotten into shields yet, so this will be my substitute. I've covered the piece of steel with blue dye to make it easy to see my scribe lines when it's time to cut out the parts. Here I've taken 2 pieces of the stainless sheet that I just cut and clamped them together. The blade has to be under constant tension from the spring. COVID-19 status: Courses are up and running! So I drilled the pin holes in the liners. The hole in the spring is used as a guide and both liners are drilled thru. Ive been enjoying making slip-joints based on a design published in this book for the last few months, and have been wanting to get away from using another makers design. Now I'll pull the pins out and deburr the liners and spring (back to the sandpaper on the glass) then reassemble to test the spring. I'm not going to move the blade out of this position until I have ground off the excess material that was left on the top of the backspring. The standard slip joint, whose backbar is a spring and must be free to move, can develop play on either side of the spring. According to the technical information I could find on D2 steel, this should work well for folder springs. If all goes well, I end up with a stainless washer with the pivot hole in the middle. I'm about to drill the hole for the pin that goes thru the center of the spring. You can't see it in the photo, but I have a small gap at the bottom of the notch I cut in the blade...this is good and will make the blade nice and solid in the open position. I can now lower the cutter and rotate the table to make a built in washer so to speak on the liner. I then use the straight reamer to ream the hole to proper size. My patterns for the blade and backspring are clamped to the piece of steel. I still have to put in the decorative mosaic pin and peen the handle scales pins. I am pretty pleased with how this knife turned out. Then the final edge was put on. Here's the blade after that cut is made. There are other ways to do this, but I find that using this method it's easy for me to keep the cut square with the flats of the blade. Peening is done with a small ball peen hammer...the back side is supported on the flat part of my vise while doing this. I use a piece of tape to help me keep the grinds lined up on both sides of the blade. I've taken an old worn grinding belt and ground a short bevel on the edge of the blade at about 45 degrees. Mill makes a nice square cut and the finish left is easy to polish down. I've got about 1/16" of offset. It is important when making a slipjoint folder that the blade and backspring are the same thickness and are as flat as possible. These designs are suitable for anyone with a drill press and some basic hand tools. The blade is placed on the stacked liners with a pin thru the pivot hole and the spring is clamped on. ... Kershaw Culpepper Slip Joint Knife Black G-10 (3.25" Satin) 4383. The holes in the handle scales for the pins have been slightly reamed on the handle side to allow space for the pins to expand when I peen them. or Best Offer. However, the Fallkniven U1 is a worthy addition. The West is streamlined and lightweight making it ideal for everyday carry. I have a rotary vise installed on the mill table and have offset the cutter from the center. Check back now and then as we are always adding more. All Rights Reserved. If one has a large slip joint knife that can handle reasonably heavy tasks, then ergonomics becomes a factor. The choil is the notch that will separate the cutting edge of the blade from the tang. I did this using a forstner bit just like the pivot washers were done. Prior to heat treating, I want the spring to be about 0.020" higher in the closed position. $5.45 shipping. Tharwa Valley Forge. OK, so the new mill and horizontal grinder are set up and ready to go...time to get busy making some new slipjoint folders. Knife Engineering: Steel, Heat Treating, and Geometry Dr. Larrin Thomas. I still have a lot of work to do on this prototype, but the parts are all fitted together, and the knife works well mechanically. Before removing the clamps, I scribe a line around both of the parts using the pattern templates. The remaining 3 larger pins will hold the 2 halves of the knife together. I clean up the spring notch on the blade with some sandpaper and elbow grease...can't get into the tight spaces on the grinder. First step is to decide on a pattern and then pick a suitable steel to use for the blade and backspring. Hey, it looks pretty good so far! I've reassembled the knife with the temperary pins to check the spring tension...feels pretty good at this point. This item: Slip-joint Folder Designing and Building by Steve Culver Paperback $19.99 Ships from and sold by I cut a piece big enough to cover the liners and split it using my wood cutting bandsaw. The picture shows the results...handle scales glued to liners with all pin holes drilled out. I start by cleaning up the inside of the spring on the horizontal grinder. Kissing Crane knife Yellow Handle 3 blade Whittler knife new in box. Real Steel Luna Slip Joint Knife Jade G10 Handle Plain Edge D2 Blade. Another thing you don't want to forget to do before the steel is hardened. I thought you might find it interesting to see the process I use to make one of these, so I decided to take a few pictures as I go along. It is a pain when you remember to cut the choil after the blade has been hardened. The Lockback Knife: From first Design to Completed Folding by Stefan Steigerwald Peter Fronteddu Spiral-bound $23.99 Here she is...Finally!!!! After making sure the handle scales and liners are nice and flat, I glue the scales to the liners using super glue. These holes were then slightly countersunk on the inside surface so I can peen the pins in to make a tight fit. I'm gonna clamp it here and drill the last hole and see how it works out. I will make the washers out of some 3/8" 416 stainless steel rod. So I had a punch made and this will be the first time using it too. 70 sold. This is the part that is really fun for me as I get to see the knife "come to life" so to speak. It doesn't take much to bring the parts back to where they were prior to the heat treating process. The spring is also sitting flush with the liners in both open and closed position now. $50.00. I never imagined when I got "involved" with slip joints that I'd ever spend so much money on one knife. Another neat trick I learned from another knife maker (thanks Bill). I'm planning to use 3/32" pins, so I drill pilot holes with a slightly undersized bit and then ream the holes to 3/32" with a straight reamer. Field and tactical, skinners, utility, and more - includes hidden and full-tang designs. I've just taken the pouches out of the kiln and placed them between aluminum plates to cool. After completing both handle scales to this point, I'm ready to glue the scales onto the liners. Now I've got to cleanup the parts again. I couldn't get it to show up in a picture, so you'll have to take my word for it  :-). This operation is done so that the tang of the blade blade does not get scratched up when you open and close the knife. What you see in the photo is a jig I made to help me get this adjusted to the point I'm comfortable with before I heat treat the steel and put tension on the spring. A slipjoint knife is one of the most ubiquitous types of pocketknives.A slipjoint knife consists of a handle with one or more folding blades. It's important to leave a little extra "meat" on the blade tang (part around where the pivot pin goes) to allow for adjusting the fit of the blade and spring later in the process. I put the knife together using this pin material and cut the pins off just a little longer than the knife is thick. So, I'm now going to concentrate on that part. It worked pretty good! I think you can buy these now but they are kinda expensive. I then remove the forstner bit and install the undersized bit I used to drill the pivot holes in the blade and liners. It has a Scandinavian grind to make it easy to carve with and easy to sharpen in the field. I modified the ram in this little arbor press to hold the punch while I give it a good whack. For the knife I will be designing in this tutorial I was inspired by a Reese Bose Shadow pattern construction folder. Here's what it looks like now. Then the required holes are drilled out on the drill press. A few more things to do before the parts are ready to be heat treated. Notice that the backspring has a larger (5/32") hole at the rear for the lanyard. With that said, here we go... First step is to decide on a pattern and then pick a suitable steel to use for the blade and backspring. I was thinking a precision ground O1 stell blade and spring, brass liners and … I have plans to make a slip joint soon and would like to make some sort of a Prototype to make sure everything works like it should before using all the nice materials. © I've got a pretty good fit now between my blade and backspring in the notch. This will be my reference line. As it is right now, that spring is way too stiff for me to cycle the blade from open to closed position. 2020 Now I'm ready to do some shaping and finishing. Might as well cut the choil now while I'm thinking about it. Well, the photo turned out blurry, but you can at least see that there is a mosaic pin placed in this side of the knife. It's not too clear in the picture, but if you look close, you can see my reference line on the liner. The spring is a bit too stiff still, so I'll have to make an adjustment on the inside surface of the spring. AL WARREN CUSTOM KNIVES offers a variety of quality, custom handmade hunting knives & pocket knives for sale. Alright, here's the result of all that peening. Here it is with a 600 grit satin far so good. It is a little harder on grinding belts, but even if I ground them prior to heat treating I'd have to do the finish grinding afterward anyway. Now to test the action. I’m not sure pictures do it justice. I know, I'm jumpin around all over the place, but I'm new to making these and haven't done it enough to make it flow really well. Ending Today at 1:00PM PST 46m 41s. Many slip joints come with a sub 3" blade, but this one at just shy of 3.5" is perfect for me. The spring is still a bit stiff, but that's the way I want it on this big knife. I just need some pieces big enough roughed out on the bandsaw. Since the knife laws vary across the world, it was essential to also make a non-locking slip joint model to allow users in for example the UK to also carry this great design whilst staying within the law. The original modern slip joint knife. Choosing an everyday carry (EDC) knife for jurisdictions with strict knife laws comes with its challenges. Folding knives have been around since at least the year 600 BCE. I'll have to file that away. Maybe with a little more practice it will become second nature. I took a slip joint class with Bill Ruple and Rusty Preston in TX and met Enrique Pena while there. This archive contains 104 templates and 300 drawings which have been scanned to scale to allow them to be printed as templates. Now that I've separated the spring and blade, it's time to cut the notch in the blade where the backspring sits. $27.49. You don't have to be a precision machinist to make one, but you do have to take care to be accurate. The jig is called a rise and fall indicator and was originally thunk up by Bill Ruple if I'm not mistaken. I then drilled out a hole for the pivot pin that will go thru the blade. It'll take the hair off your knuckles if you forget to put on your gloves before reaching in...or so I've heard. The Japanese Knife Maker Kansei Matsuno is a true master of his trade and his designs certainly sh.. I grind most of my blades after heat treatment, so I've got to keep the blade cool or I risk ruining the temper. $29.99. I've placed a 3/8" forstner bit in the drill press and adjusted the depth stop so it stops about 0.050" short of going thru the handle scale when I drill the pocket. As before, I drilled the hole a little undersized and then reamed it to the proper diameter. New Twosun Knives One Solid Titanium M390 Pocket SLIP JOINT Knife TS254-Solid. This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution … Modern knife locks can take a pounding before they break. So rather than getting into all of that, I will use an old knife that I’ve taken apart as a pattern for the project. Now for the maker's mark. Here's the sheet marked up and ready to cut. Notice that I've thinned out an area just ahead of the hole on the right. I've removed the blade and pivoted the rear of the spring slightly up. At this point, I've been working with steel in it's annealed (soft) state. The holes in the liners is used as the guide for the drill bit. I did some trials using a dressed stone, but the nicks I cut this way had washed out corners, so I'm gonna give this a try. I've done this to keep from scraping the abrasives off my grinding belt when I start hollow grinding the blade. Here are the liners after jeweling. With the center hole drilled thru the liners, I now put in a temperary pin to hold things in place. The drill bit is slightly bigger than my blade is thick. Here's the roughed in grind. Now to put it together for the last time. Remember the two parallel lines I scribed on the blade edge? A slip joint forces you to really think about what you are trying to accomplish. Now I can separate the 2 parts on the bandsaw. Learn about some of the common mechanisms used in locking and non-locking folding knives before beginning the process of making your own single blade slip joint folder. I also took some time and made adjustments to the blade tang so that the spring is at the same height in both open and closed position...the rise and fall indicator has been very useful. There are a lot of little details in the way all the pieces of the design fit and flow together, and it’s one of the more comfortable knives to have in my pocket, in spite of its size. Here are the parts after they have been profiled out. Design ideas and inspiration. You have assured superior fit and finish with my 40 years making knives. CRKT Quill Slip Joint Knife Steigerwalt Design. I think I'm gonna like this punch thing...quick and easy with no mess. It doesn't take long for the super glue to set. It's especially tricky when using fragile handle material so you quit before you split the material. I'm actually doing a small batch of knives at once to try to gain a little efficiency, so here I've scratched the number 1 on both the blade and spring so I can match them back up after heat treating. ... “The internal spring takes up more room and thereby creates issues with designing a knife for it.” Conversely, it challenges makers to devise new designs, which is always good for the knife industry. The springs have to be softened where they will bend, but not break. There are no set rules when it comes to designing a slip-back folding knife but there are some guidelines that could help one in starting out making a slip-back folding knife. I think I try that first. It’s a pretty difficult task to explain the geometry involved in making a slip joint pocketknife. Now there is something interesting to see when you look down into the knife. I now have a 3/8" flat bottom pocket with a pivot hole in the center. The stainless rod is then superglued into the pocket and the excess trimmed off on the bandsaw. Japanese kitchen knives seem mysterious and exotic to many people. I'll either have to do lots of grinding to thin it down, or I can try splitting it. I have a piece of precision ground D2 tool steel that is 0.095" thick...perfect. I wore out a couple of those over the years too. Many such knives may have blades and frames sturdy enough to do at least medium duty cutting, while the most robust models can do relatively heavy work. Slip Joint Knives do not give a false sense of security. I also prepare a 0.002" shim to place between the blade tang and liner so I will not lock up the blade by peening it too tight. Back to the spring adjustment thing...while I'm at the grinder adjusting the spring tension, it's a good time to adjust the tang of the blade so that the spring is the same height in the closed position as it is in the open position. $30.00. Its more famous brother has admittedly stolen most of the limelight from the Douk-Douk, though frankly I … $115.50. These are the smaller holes at the midline of the liners. They are then taken out to cool and the process is repeated for another 2 hours. I'll adjust it some more later. Here's a little better shot of the mosaic pin. It's a slow process...the object is to swell the head of the pins on both sides of the knife enough to pull the knife together nice and tight. Here's the result...both liners have been relieved around the pivot. This simply means that instead of bolsters, it will have washers installed around the pivot pin on the outside of the handle scales. Condition: New. One step eliminated. Inspired by the classic slip-joint style, WESN’s Henry is still a modern knife by all measures. I'm using a dovetail cutter for the first time, so wish me luck. I start by making the first cut using a cut off wheel in my drill press.

designing a slip joint knife

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